{"id":19359,"date":"2021-02-07T16:33:54","date_gmt":"2021-02-07T15:33:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.kobler-margreid.com\/blog\/?p=19359"},"modified":"2021-02-07T18:12:03","modified_gmt":"2021-02-07T17:12:03","slug":"a","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.kobler-margreid.com\/blog\/blog\/2021\/02\/07\/a\/","title":{"rendered":"Im Weinglas: Lage, Sorte und Jahrgang \u2013 Nel bicchiere: zona, vitigno ed annata"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a> Schon zu Hobbywein-Zeiten, also zwischen 1993 und 2005, war es mit wichtig zu sehen, wie sich die einzelnen Sorten in den dementsprechenden Lagen verhalten. Die Grundlage daf\u00fcr waren die zur\u00fcckhaltenden Ausbaumethoden, welche ich vom Weinkeller des Versuchszentrums Laimburg \u00fcbernommen habe. Ich wollte in erster Linie wissen, was die Lagen hergaben, ob in jedem Weingarten die jeweils richtige Sorte gesetzt ist. Den bestm\u00f6glichen Wein um jeden Preis zu machen, war hingegen nie mein Ziel. In den allermeisten F\u00e4llen haben die Sorten-Lagen-Kombinationen gepasst. Nur an wenigen Orten musste nachgebessert werden: so ist der Vernatsch im Kotzner ziemlich sicher der Klimaerw\u00e4rumng zum Opfer gefallen, f\u00fcr die kleinen Anteilen Grauen Burgunder und Chardonnay in den Weing\u00e4rten Feld und Kotzner wurde es dort auch zu warm. Gerade als Wei\u00dfburgunder in S\u00fcdtirol eine Renaissance erfahren hat, haben wir in am Ogenaer gerodet; er hat dort wohl nie so richtig hingepasst.<\/p>\n

Gi\u00e0 ai tempi in cui facevo vino per hobby, cio\u00e8 tra il 1993 ed il 2005, per me era importante vedere quali risultati danno i differenti vitigni nei vigneti di nostra propriet\u00e0. La base per fare queste osservazioni \u00e8 stato l’approccio di un’enologia poco invasiva che ho trasferito a casa mia dal Centro Sperimentale Laimburg, allora il mio posto di lavoro. Volevo capire le potenzialit\u00e0 dei differenti siti e vedere quanto azzeccata o meno era la scelta dei corrispettivi vitigni. Il mio obiettivo non era mai fare il miglior vino possibile a tutti i costi. Nella maggior parte dei casi le combinazioni tra variet\u00e0 e vitigno erano corrette, solo in pochi posti bisognava migliorare: la Schiava nel vigneto Kotzner \u00e8 rimasta vittima molto probabilmente del riscaldamento globale, ed anche per le modeste percentuali di Pinot grigio e Chardonnay nel Feld e Kotzner \u00e8 diventato troppo caldo per dare risultati soddisfacenti. Proprio quando il Pinot bianco in Sudtirolo \u00e8 diventato di nuovo di moda lo abbiamo estirpato all’Ogeaner. L\u00ec, per dire la verit\u00e0, non aveva mai trovato un ambiente idoneo.<\/em><\/p>\n

In dieses Schema einer defensiven \u00d6nologie hat auch nie die Verwendung von kleinen und\/oder neuem Holz gepasst. Nicht, dass die Weine dadurch an absoluter Qualit\u00e4t einb\u00fc\u00dfen w\u00fcrden, aber die Unterschiede zwischen den Sorten und Lagen w\u00fcrden in jedem Fall weniger deutlich bemerkbar sein. Einzig beim Ausbau meines Cabernet Franc und Merlot Riserva habe ich bis vor kurzem \u00fcber keine \u00fcberzeugende Alternativen zu den Barriques verf\u00fcgt. Damit die anf\u00e4nglich ungenie\u00dfbare Gerbstoffkomponente mit der Zeit zu dem wird, was Rotwein \u00fcber die Farbe hinaus wirklich ausmacht, ist eine geringe aber konstante Sauerstoffzufurhr w\u00e4hrend des Weinausbaus notwendig. Zu diesem Zweck habe ich mir 2006 und 2007 gebrauchte Burgunderf\u00e4sser, Pi\u00e8ces, besorgt, welche von den vorigen Besitzern 2001angekauft wurden. Dadurch kann die Reifung der Weine gew\u00e4hrleistet werden, ohne dass diese merkbar mit den Inhaltsstoffen des Holzes oder dessen Toastung angereichert werden. Diese F\u00e4sser sind bei mir \u00fcbrigens nach fast zwanzig Jahren immer noch in Gebrauch.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nL’utilizzo del legno sopratutto piccolo e nuovo era sempre in contrasto con il mio approccio di enologia cautelativa. Non perch\u00e9 penso che nuocerebbe alla qualit\u00e0 in assoluto ma perch\u00e9 le differenze tra zone e vitigni sarebbero sicuramente meno spiccate. Solamente per le variet\u00e0 rosse Cabernet Franc e Merlot non ho trovato alternative valide alle barriques, tenendo presente sempre la mia particolare situazione. Perch\u00e9 la componente fenolica col tempo diventi una componente positiva del vino rosso, \u00e8 indispensabile un apporto minimo ma costante di ossigeno durante la maturazione in serbatoio. A questo scopo ho acquistato nel 2006 e 2007 delle pi\u00e8ces borgognotte volutamente di seconda mano, comprate dai proprietari precedenti nel 2001. In queso modo veniva garanti<\/em>ta la maturazione del vino senza arricchirlo con sostanze rilasciate dal legno stesso e dalla sua tostatura. Dopo quasi vent’anni di utilizzo queste botti all’occorrenza vengono tuttora utlizzate.<\/em><\/p>\n

Auf Grund meiner Bed\u00fcrfnisse habe ich von Anfang an mit Interesse die Entwicklungen der Firma Clayver<\/a> verfolgt. Schon ihr Ansatz, das Thema anzugehen, hat mir sehr gut gefallen:<\/p>\n

We are engineers of course! we analyse problems and we face them with ideas and knowledge.\u00a0We do not star-gaze; we prefer to look at microscopes and measurement instruments. We prefer making calculations rather than throwing dice. When we thought about wine, our main idea was to avoid disturbing it. We came up with a material and a container that was able to accompany wine on its natural path. We did this in the simplest way that nature offers: water, earth and fire. In order to do this well though, computers, analyses and many mistakes were necessary. We learned a lot, and we are now convinced that we can offer a practical easy to handle ceramic container, one that requires no coatings and is easy to maintain. Try it. Its simplicity will surprise you! …
\nUnlike terracotta, it is very tough, which makes it easier to handle. The material is waterproof and therefore no special provisions are necessary to prevent the evaporation of the liquid, such as wax, enamel or resin coating. The material is naked.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

A causa dei miei bisogni ho seguito con interesse gli sviluppi della ditta Clayver<\/a>. Gi\u00e0 il loro atteggiamento nel confrontare la tematica mi \u00e8 piaciuto:<\/em><\/p>\n

Siamo tecnici\u00a0certamente! i problemi li studiamo e li affrontiamo con le idee e la conoscenza.
\nNon scrutiamo le stelle ma piuttosto microscopi e strumenti di misura.\u00a0Preferiamo fare calcoli che lanciare i dadi. Quando per\u00f2 abbiamo pensato al vino, l\u2019idea che abbiamo avuto \u00e8 stata solo quella di non disturbarlo. Abbiamo quindi realizzato un materiale e un contenitore in grado semplicemente di accompagnare il suo naturale cammino. Lo abbiamo fatto usando nel modo pi\u00f9 semplice possibile quello che la natura ci mette a disposizione: acqua, terra e fuoco. Per farlo bene per\u00f2 servono computer, analisi e tanti errori. Abbiamo sbagliato e imparato tanto ma siamo ora convinti di poter offrire un contenitore ceramico standard, pratico, maneggevole, senza bisogno di alcun trattamento e di facile manutenzione. Provatelo. La sua essenzialit\u00e0 vi stupir\u00e0! …
\nIl materiale si presenta impermeabile ai liquidi e pertanto non sono necessari accorgimenti di alcun genere per evitare l\u2019evaporazione del prodotto, come il rivestimento o impregnazione con cera, resine e smalti. Il materiale \u00e8 pertanto nudo. La struttura microporosa intrinseca del materiale ceramico per\u00f2 pu\u00f2 permettere uno scambio gassoso con l\u2019esterno del recipiente ma solo in quantit\u00e0 molto limitata e su scale temporali molto lunghe. Il contenitore \u00e8 quindi idoneo anche a lunghi invecchiamenti.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Bis vor ein paar Jahren war die Form der Beh\u00e4lter und der notwendige Umgang mit ihnen ein Hindernisgrund f\u00fcr mich. Seit aber die Beh\u00e4lter mit 400 L Inhalt angeboten werden, welche zudem aufrecht stehen k\u00f6nnen und \u00fcber ein Bodenventil verf\u00fcgen, sind sie auch f\u00fcr mich interessant geworden. F\u00fcr die Ernte 2019 habe ich die ersten beiden angekauft, im letzten Herbst sind noch einmal zwei dazugekommen. Letztere sind etwas luftduchl\u00e4ssiger und werden auf Grund meiner ersten Erfahrung f\u00fcr den Ausbau des Cabernet Franc verwendet. Die \u00e4lteren, etwas dichteren hingegen f\u00fcr den Merlot Riserva, dieser macht n\u00e4mlich auch ein l\u00e4ngere Flaschenreifung mit. Was mir bei diesem Material zudem gut gef\u00e4llt ist die Tatsache, dass diese Beh\u00e4lter auch nach einer Rotweinbelegung\u00a0auch mit wei\u00dfem Most oder Wein bef\u00fcllt werden k\u00f6nnen. Meinem Anspruch, dem Kunden so viel wie m\u00f6glich Lage, Sorte und Jahrgang ins Glas zu bringen, bin ich jedenfalls wieder einen Schritt n\u00e4her gekommen.<\/p>\n

Fino a qualche anno fa la forma, il contenuto e la laboriosa esecuzione dei lavori di cantina furono motivi per cui non li volevo utilizzare nella mia cantina. Proponendoli da poco anche con 400 L di capienza, la possibilit\u00e0 di posizione eretta e con una valvola sul fondo sono diventati interessanti anche per me. Ho comprato due per la vendemmia 2019, l’autunno scorso ne ho aggiunti altri due. Quest’ultime hanno una porosit\u00e0 maggiore e le utilizzer\u00f2 per il Cabernet Franc. Queste fanno passare un poco meno l’ossigeno e sono destinate ad ospitare il Merlot Riserva in quanto questo passa qualche anno in pi\u00f9 in bottiglia. In pi\u00f9 mi piace il fatto che questi contenitori possono essere utilizzati per mosti e vini bianchi anche dopo essere usati col vino rosso. In ogni caso ho fatto un ulteriore passo per proporre nel bicchiere pi\u00f9 vigneto, variet\u00e0 ed annata possibile.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Schon zu Hobbywein-Zeiten, also zwischen 1993 und 2005, war es mit wichtig zu sehen, wie sich die einzelnen Sorten in den dementsprechenden Lagen verhalten. Die Grundlage daf\u00fcr waren die zur\u00fcckhaltenden Ausbaumethoden, welche ich vom Weinkeller des Versuchszentrums Laimburg \u00fcbernommen habe. … Weiterlesen →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[526,1596,1606,617,1604,1605,1607],"class_list":["post-19359","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-keller","tag-cabernet-franc","tag-clayver","tag-lagen","tag-merlot","tag-sorten","tag-varieta","tag-vigneti"],"yoast_head":"\nIm Weinglas: Lage, Sorte und Jahrgang \u2013 Nel bicchiere: zona, vitigno ed annata - weinhof KOBLER weblog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.kobler-margreid.com\/blog\/blog\/2021\/02\/07\/a\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Im Weinglas: Lage, Sorte und Jahrgang \u2013 Nel bicchiere: zona, vitigno ed annata - weinhof KOBLER weblog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Schon zu Hobbywein-Zeiten, also zwischen 1993 und 2005, war es mit wichtig zu sehen, wie sich die einzelnen Sorten in den dementsprechenden Lagen verhalten. 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